Whats new that I really love? Mellisa Dennis books Sfoglia weeks ahead and explains the changing menu. Photo: Steven RichterWhats new and good, all my friends ask? Of all the restaurants Ive written about on InsatiableCritic.com since shortly before we launched, where do I want to eat again? Going backwards chronologically from November 5, 2007… Bun.  In the exposed kitchen of this narrow bargain Vietnamese noodle shop, Chef and mini-mogul Michael Bao Huynh whirls and dashesfilling orders a la minute for sensational pho with beef and sweetbreads, and the duck confit with duck egg and dikon pancake that I cant stop eating.  A few steps away his wife Thap Nguyens serenely fashions classic rolls, two by two, for a demanding crowd. 143 Grand Street between.Crosby and Lafayette. 212-431-7999.Irving Mill. Unabashedly flaunting the genes of Gramercy Tavern, whats new and exciting is chef/partner Jo best collagen supplements hn Schaefers delicious food on a trim but tempting market menu.  Try grilled baby octopus, savory cockle-and-chorizo stew and arctic char on lentils with Savoy cabbage, speck and cippolini. 116 E. 16th Street between Union Square East and Irving Place 212 254 1600Shortys .32.  After twelve years in Jean-Georges Vongerichtens kitchens, chef/partner Josh Eden concealed in his own downtown, turns out wonderful cavatelli with arugula and wild mushroom ragout, fine braised short ribs served alongside macaroni and cheese of my childhood dreams, splendid roast cod in a gruyere broth, and a burger with crunch-perfect fries. Hes wooing the neighborhood, so no reservations for us. 199 Prince Street between Sullivan and MacDougal 212 375 8275.TBar Steak & Lounge. Tony Fortunas recasting of the Lenox Room means a noisy scene at the bar and impressive steaks, a juicy pork chop and no more tasting tiers.